Jane Birkin's Original Hermès Bag Shines at Sotheby's Paris
Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin, the bag that transformed luxury fashion, is now the highlight at Sotheby’s Paris. In an exclusive exhibition, visitors can discover this iconic accessory, a symbol of timeless elegance and global allure, in a rare fashion showcase.
Could Jane Birkin have foreseen that the Birkin bag she first carried would evolve into one of the most sought-after luxury items globally? This iconic Hermès Birkin is now at the centre of an exclusive exhibition at Sotheby’s in Paris, offering enthusiasts the chance to rediscover the accessory that transformed the high fashion world.
The birth of the Birkin bag
The story of the Birkin bag begins with a serendipitous meeting on an Air France flight in 1984. While travelling with her young daughter, Jane Birkin found herself seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, the then-artistic director of Hermès. Birkin, frustrated by the impracticality of most handbags, famously spilt the contents of her large wicker basket—a makeshift bag—onto Dumas, who sympathised with her struggle. She lamented the absence of a handbag spacious enough for her busy lifestyle.
Dumas, inspired by Birkin’s needs, sketched what would become the iconic Birkin bag, combining elements of Hermès' classic sac Haut à Courroies with modern functionality. This design revolutionised handbags, offering ample space and a chic aesthetic. Hermès presented the finished product to Birkin in 1985, and it quickly became an extension of her identity.
The mythical Birkin
The Original Birkin that Birkin received wasn’t just a commercial product. It was a prototype boasting seven unique design features that distinguished it from all future Birkin bags. Among its distinctive elements were a non-removable shoulder strap and a hybrid size that combined the dimensions of two popular Birkin models—the Birkin 35 and the Birkin 40. This prototype was made for practicality, but it also exuded elegance, featuring gilded brass hardware and smaller studs at its base.
Jane Birkin's Original Hermès Bag, Credit: Sotheby's
Another personal touch was the initials “J.B.” embossed on the front flap, forever marking it as Jane Birkin’s own. She carried it everywhere, using it as a symbol for the causes she passionately defended, from Médecins du Monde to UNICEF.
Jane Birkin's Original Hermès Bag, Credit: Sotheby's
From Jane’s arm to auction houses
For nearly a decade, Birkin cherished her original bag, which became synonymous with her effortlessly chic style. In 1994, she generously donated it to a charity auction in support of the Association Solidarité Sida. The bag continued its journey through various hands, last appearing at auction in 2000 before disappearing into private ownership.
However, the iconic Birkin returns to the public eye for a special exhibition at Sotheby’s Paris, located in their new headquarters on Avenue Matignon. As part of their “Excellence à la Française” exhibit, which showcases masterpieces of French artistry, Birkin’s bag will be displayed in its original, well-worn condition. With even Jane’s signature nail clipper still dangling from the strap, the Birkin tells the story of a life well-lived.
A cultural icon
The Birkin bag has transcended its status as a mere fashion accessory to become a cultural phenomenon. Whether carried by celebrities or preserved in museums like New York’s Museum of Modern Art and London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, the Birkin embodies luxury, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal. It’s more than just a bag—it’s a statement.
Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin remains a potent reminder of how fashion can intersect with personal history, advocacy, and art. As it takes centre stage this autumn, fans and collectors alike are invited to witness not just a bag but a piece of modern fashion history that continues to inspire and captivate.
The exhibit runs from October 12 to October 31, 2024, offering a rare glimpse into the world of one of fashion's most iconic creations.
