How Gabrielle the Orphan Became Coco the Icon

Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel, born on 19 August 1883 in Saumur, France, was a pioneering force who reshaped the fashion landscape of the 20th century. Her journey from humble beginnings to becoming a global symbol of elegance is a tale of resilience, innovation, and an unyielding commitment to breaking the norms of her time.

Chanel's early life was marked by hardship. Following her mother’s death when Gabrielle was just 12 years old, her father, unable to care for his children, placed Gabrielle and her sisters in the orphanage at the Cistercian Abbey of Aubazine. The austere environment of the abbey, with its strict discipline and minimalistic aesthetic, deeply influenced Chanel’s design ethos. The orphanage’s environment, with its simple, monochromatic palette, became the foundation for what would later become Chanel’s signature style—characterised by clean lines, understated colours, and an emphasis on comfort and simplicity.

At the age of 18, Chanel left the orphanage and moved to Moulins, where she joined her aunt and began working as a seamstress in a local atelier. Here, she honed her sewing skills, making trousseaux and layettes, and nurtured her dream of escaping her modest circumstances. Between 1907 and 1908, determined to forge a new path, Chanel ventured into performing and singing in cafés and music halls. It was during this time that she acquired the nickname "Coco," allegedly inspired by one of the songs she performed, "Qui qu'a vu Coco dans l'Trocadéro?"

Coco Chanel’s life took a significant turn when she met Étienne Balsan, a wealthy textile heir. Balsan introduced Chanel to the world of Parisian high society, exposing her to the opulent lifestyle of the elite. It was in these circles that Chanel began to develop her distinctive taste and eye for fashion. Her relationship with Balsan also introduced her to Arthur "Boy" Capel, a wealthy English polo player who would become her lover and a significant influence in her life. Capel saw potential in Chanel’s burgeoning talent and provided financial support for her first business ventures.

In 1910, with Capel’s backing, Chanel opened her first boutique, "Chanel Modes," at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris. Initially focusing on millinery, Chanel’s hats quickly gained popularity among the fashionable women of Paris, including the famed actress Gabrielle Dorziat. Her success in hats laid the groundwork for further expansions, and by 1913, Chanel had opened additional boutiques in the chic resort towns of Deauville and Biarritz. These early successes allowed Chanel to establish herself as a serious contender in the fashion industry.

Chanel’s approach to fashion was revolutionary. She rejected the ornate, restrictive styles that dominated women’s fashion at the time, instead offering designs that were comfortable, practical, and effortlessly chic. She used jersey fabric, which was traditionally reserved for men’s underwear, to create loose-fitting dresses that allowed women freedom of movement—a radical departure from the corseted silhouettes of the previous century. Chanel’s designs epitomised a new era of modernity, where simplicity and elegance were inextricably linked.

By 1915, Chanel’s reputation as a fashion innovator had solidified. She expanded her offerings to include a full range of clothing, with her designs characterised by their relaxed silhouettes, unadorned lines, and neutral colour palettes. Her collections were a hit with the wealthy clientele who flocked to her boutiques in Deauville and Biarritz. Chanel’s success in these early years of her career laid the foundation for what would become one of the most influential fashion houses in the world.

In 1921, Chanel made a bold move that would further cement her legacy: she launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5. Unlike other perfumes of the time, which were typically single-note floral scents, Chanel No. 5 was a complex blend of eighty ingredients, including jasmine, rose, and a synthetic component known as aldehydes. The result was a fragrance that was both fresh and sophisticated, embodying the modern woman that Chanel sought to dress. The perfume’s name, No. 5, was chosen because it was the fifth sample presented to Chanel, and it quickly became iconic, symbolising luxury, femininity, and elegance. Chanel No. 5’s success was unprecedented, and it remains one of the best-selling perfumes in the world to this day.

Following the success of Chanel No. 5, Chanel continued to innovate and expand her brand. In 1924, she opened a workshop dedicated to creating costume jewellery, which became another hallmark of the Chanel aesthetic. Chanel’s jewellery was bold and unconventional, designed to complement her clothing rather than overshadow it. She believed that jewellery should be an extension of a woman’s personality, not just a symbol of wealth. This philosophy was reflected in her designs, which often combined precious stones with more humble materials, such as glass and enamel.

In 1932, Chanel ventured into high jewellery with her collection "Bijoux de Diamants." This collection featured exquisite pieces crafted from diamonds, set in platinum, and designed to be worn in multiple ways. The collection was a critical success and further established Chanel as a leader in luxury fashion. Chanel’s jewellery designs, like her clothing, were characterised by their simplicity, elegance, and versatility.

The interwar years were a period of significant expansion for the Chanel brand. By the late 1920s, the Rue Cambon boutique had expanded to include numbers 27, 29, and 31, with number 31 becoming the iconic headquarters of the House of Chanel. During this time, Chanel introduced several of her most famous creations, including the little black dress, which became a staple of women’s wardrobes around the world. The little black dress was revolutionary in its simplicity and versatility, embodying Chanel’s belief that fashion should be both practical and elegant.

Chanel’s influence extended beyond fashion and into the world of art and culture. She had close relationships with many of the leading figures of the time, including Pablo Picasso, Igor Stravinsky, and Jean Cocteau. These relationships were mutually beneficial, with Chanel providing financial support to several artists and in return drawing inspiration from their work. Chanel’s collaboration with Cocteau on the costumes for his 1922 play "Antigone" is one example of how her influence extended beyond the fashion world.

During World War II, Chanel made the controversial decision to close her boutiques, except for her flagship store at 31 Rue Cambon, where she continued to sell perfumes and accessories. Chanel’s actions during the war, including her relationship with a Nazi officer, have been the subject of much debate and criticism. After the war, Chanel retreated to Switzerland, where she lived in relative seclusion for several years.

In 1954, at the age of 71, Chanel made a triumphant return to the fashion world. The post-war fashion scene was dominated by Christian Dior’s "New Look," which featured cinched waists, full skirts, and an ultra-feminine silhouette. Chanel, ever the contrarian, offered a different vision of femininity—one that was understated, practical, and modern. Her return collection featured the now-iconic Chanel suit, characterised by its boxy jacket, slim skirt, and use of luxurious fabrics like tweed. The Chanel suit quickly became a symbol of sophisticated elegance, favoured by women around the world, including First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy.

In 1955, Chanel introduced the 2.55 handbag, named after the date of its creation, February 1955. The 2.55 was revolutionary for its time, featuring a quilted design, a chain strap that allowed it to be worn over the shoulder, and a practical, yet elegant, aesthetic. The handbag was an instant success and remains one of Chanel’s most iconic creations.

Chanel continued to work tirelessly until her death in 1971. Under her leadership, the House of Chanel had become one of the most respected and influential fashion houses in the world. After her passing, the brand experienced a period of decline, but it was revitalised in 1983 with the appointment of Karl Lagerfeld as creative director.

Lagerfeld, a visionary in his own right, honoured Chanel’s legacy while infusing the brand with a contemporary edge. He reinterpreted Chanel’s classic designs for a new generation, ensuring that the brand remained relevant in the ever-changing fashion landscape. Under Lagerfeld’s direction, Chanel expanded into new areas, including watches, cosmetics, and skincare, further solidifying its position as a leader in the luxury market.

In 2019, following Lagerfeld’s death, Virginie Viard, his longtime collaborator, took over as creative director of Chanel. Viard has continued to uphold the brand’s legacy while bringing her perspective to the collections. Her designs have been praised for their elegance, modernity, and respect for the house’s heritage.

Today, the House of Chanel remains synonymous with timeless style, innovation, and luxury. The brand’s commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and creativity continues to inspire women around the world. From the little black dress to Chanel No. 5, from the 2.55 handbag to the Chanel suit, the creations of Coco Chanel have become enduring symbols of sophistication and elegance.

Chanel’s legacy is not just about fashion—it’s about a way of life. She empowered women to embrace their individuality, to break free from societal constraints, and to express themselves through style. Coco Chanel once said, "Fashion fades, only style remains the same." Her words continue to resonate, reminding us that true style is eternal.