From the Fields to the Riviera: How Tanning Became Chic

The perception of tanned skin has undergone a fascinating transformation throughout history, shaped by societal values, economic structures, and changing beauty standards. Once a mark of manual labour, it evolved into a symbol of affluence and leisure, with modern views emphasising health and individuality.

Pale Skin as a Status Symbol

In many pre-industrial societies, pale skin was a hallmark of the upper class. It signified a life of privilege, sheltered from the rigours of outdoor work. In Europe, aristocrats went to great lengths to maintain their pallor, using powders, parasols, and even lead-based cosmetics to achieve an ethereal appearance. By contrast, tanned skin was associated with farmers and labourers, whose outdoor occupations exposed them to the sun.

The Shift to Sun-Kissed Skin

The early 20th century brought a dramatic shift in attitudes toward tanned skin. Fashion icon Coco Chanel inadvertently started a trend when she returned from a Mediterranean holiday with a tan, declaring it stylish. At the same time, the burgeoning middle and upper classes embraced outdoor leisure activities, from beach vacations to yachting, which required time and disposable income. A tan became a visible sign of wealth, health, and a leisurely lifestyle.

Coco Chanel, who may have inadvertently 'invented' sunbathing. Photograph: Alex Stewart Sasha/Hulton-Deutsch Collection/Corbis

The newfound allure of sun-kissed skin was further fuelled by advances in science. In the 1920s and 1930s, sunlight was touted for its health benefits, such as boosting vitamin D levels. Tanning became linked not only to beauty but also to vitality and wellness.

Tanning in the Post-War Era

By the mid-20th century, international travel surged, cementing tanned skin as a status symbol. Jet-setting elites showcased their golden glow as evidence of their exotic escapades. The popularity of tanning beds and self-tanning products in the late 20th century made the look more accessible, allowing people to emulate the "vacation glow" year-round.

A woman applies sun cream to her friends' backs on Margate Main Sands, 1934. Credit: Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS/Corbis

Modern Views on Tanning

Today, attitudes toward tanning are more nuanced. Increased awareness of the risks of UV exposure, including skin cancer and premature ageing, has shifted the focus toward sun safety. Self-tanners and bronzers offer alternatives, while movements celebrating natural beauty and diversity encourage people to embrace their skin tones, whatever they may be.

Self Tanning Lotion

From a marker of labour to a symbol of luxury, tanning’s evolution reflects broader societal changes. While a tan once defined wealth and leisure, modern values prioritise health and individuality, reshaping how we view beauty.